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Thread: Need help with my chainsaw!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    10

    Default Need help with my chainsaw!

    Hello.

    I have a Husqvarna 440 chainsaw now almost three years old.

    The chain gets too hot.
    I replaced the guide blade
    I got a new chain (once a year and after a couple of cuts again smoking chain from the heat.)

    I file the teeth every time I use it untill they are grippy (3 to 7 strokes)

    I use it, fill it up with gas in proper mixture and when the tank is empty I do not refill it that day, but file, clean and continue the next day so not to overheat or strain the thing.

    I cleaned all very good, the place where the lubrication oil is pressed in the guiding blade is clean and the oil there is clear also the lubrication oil is actually used and needs topping off every time it is used. (and running free close to a piece of board I see a nice spll where the chain is throwing the oil out as it is supposed to)

    It bugs the heck out of me what I could be doing wrong and that is takes ages to but down an old fallen dead acacia tree (or is that an extremely hard wood? it burns better and longer then oak, but the acacia grows really fast.

    Any pointers?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Your chain too tight? You check your worm gear under the clutch for your oiler?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    565

    Default

    define 'hot'..

    Any chain saw I have ever used the chain got too hot to touch and the oiler was working.
    Actually in the 60s ones I used did not have an auto oiler, had a thumb pump.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Smoking burning the oil hot is too hot
    Chain too tight could be it, will test it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Helena Montana
    Posts
    1,116

    Default

    how well does the saw cut thru a soft piece of wood? If it doesn't cut pine or other woods quickly you have other problems. Do the wood chips come out of the saw as sawdust or larger shavings?

    I have never cut acacia but maybe your sharpening is causing issues. Perhaps have the chain professionally sharpened and the raker height set and then see how it cuts.

    On my 20 inch bars I set the chain tightness so it can be pulled loose of the bar but stays in contact with the under side of the bar just sitting there.

    Do you have a roller tip on the bar? on some bars it needs to be greased. I have cut firewood commercially and it is very easy to mess up a chain hand filing it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,999

    Default

    Check your chain..could be on backwards. Guides and cutting edge will be forward on top of the bar.
    Don't laugh, this can happen.

    Chain too tight. Should be able to move a cold chain with your hand forward fairly smooth if you have a roller tip bar.

    Check to see if you greased the roller tip on the bar. Lots of people forget that.

    If it's a smooth bar, check the tension on chain..they have to run a bit looser than a roller tip.

    Check to see if an edge is on the bar...meaning, the bar lips are rolling over. File the edges down smooth..this usually happens on toward the tip of saw. This will cause drag and cutting is slow, and will heat up a chain too.

    There is an bar oil adjustment on the bottom of the saw case.
    The factory usually sets it in the middle..I open them up all the way. I rather use more oil, than burn up a chain.
    Make sure oil deposit hole, where oil comes out of tank onto the bar..make sure that hole is not stopped up.

    Check the sprocket..it could be worn enough to bind the chain some, and cause some overheating of chain.

    If that chain gets too hot, meaning smoking hot..it will ruin the temper of the cutting edges.

    One other thing too...the drags may be too high. Meaning, the drags may be near even with the cutter edges.
    The drags should be at least a dime width deep compared to the cutting edge.

    I cut lots of Osage Orange (bodark or beau de' arc) and Black Locust for fence post and I've seen sparks fly, but that's on the dead limbs, which I won't cut dead stuff with a chainsaw, I'll use my axe. I have doubts the wood you're cutting is harder than bodark.
    Eat it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,999

    Default

    I forgot to point out the bar oil usage.
    You should use one tank of bar oil to one tank of gas, if not more.

    If you're having to file the chain after one tank of gas, something isn't right.
    I'll look up that wood you mentioned, I have none of that here, so I don't know how hard it is.
    I can't see it being much harder than what I cut for fencepost, but it could be.

    If your chain is blue/black color at the tips of the cutting edge, the chain may be shot. All the temper was lost.

    Got to thinking too, maybe you're running the wrong chain. I don't remember if those saws runs a .325 or 3/8 chain.

    I quit using Husky saws because of parts availability. I don't want to have to order them, no Husqvarna dealers here.
    Lowes sells them and few other stores, but their parts selection stinks.
    So I sold mine, went back to Stihl.
    I'll give the Husky saws credit, they cut very fast, lots of torque, smooth cutting saws, I just prefer my Stihl saws.
    Eat it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Hmm
    it has a roller tip and when I installed the new one I did not lubicate, will do

    Then I thighten normally so that I just can pull it down a bit, so that is too tight will loosen that

    chain is put on the right way


    It does not NEED filing I just made it my habit to stroke it 3 times when done for the day.


    It chips the wood, no sawdust.

    And other woods go fine, just the old long dead acacia tress mae t smoke and blacken the cutting edges.
    I cut bamboo with extreme ease (of course) other wood also easy, I even cut coasters about 1 cm thick we use in the house under glasses so neat are the cuts normally

    Well in France all is widely available I can buy the chains at 1 minute away
    And of course choose the correct chain.

    oil, from the star it uses more gas then oil
    so
    Will dive deeper in it to see how t cranck that up and check further.

    Thanks!
    And well when we moved here we were advised to visit a store that had all Husqvarna stuff,
    Other stores have all stihl or brands I never heard of. (Oregon)
    The close by hardware store sells none of the known brands and all chainsaws are much cheaper.
    I didn't know anything about these things so just wanted something reliable since the last thing I wanted was a failure halfway felling
    I took one that was not the cheapest in the specialized store and not the most expensive since we don't have a forrest to maintain

    I like working with it and after trying to aim smaller trees I even got one down over 45degrees off its heavy overhanging direction, exactly on the branch I stuck in the ground where I wanted it to go via the hinge.

    Oh rats, I just see in the online specs it says fixed flow for oil pump, I also did not see a way to set it higher, but will examine more closely next time
    http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products...ies/966955038/

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,999

    Default

    I was wondering if it had a fixed flow on the saw.
    I looked it up earlier, it's a smaller saw than I thought it was, which usually does not have an adjustable oiler.

    I had a Husky 455 Rancher, I guess I was going by that with adjustable oil output on the bottom of the saw.
    The saw ran dang good, I hated to swap it off, but parts was my biggest issue.
    I always ran Stihl saws up till I got the Husky, and the latter ran every bit as good as my Stihl, cut fast.
    Harder to work on tho.

    Greasing that sprocket is key to life of the bar.
    If you're not familiar with doing that, there is a hole, maybe one on each side, right behind the sprocket.
    You can buy a pump grease gun that will fit the holes, then pump grease in there till it comes out around the chain.
    That's providing it has grease holes...some of the bars do not on the cheaper saws. But, you can replace it with one
    that will take grease later on.

    It sounds like that wood you're cutting is way harder than even the Bodark I cut for fence post.
    And it's pretty hard even green, but the dead stuff, I won't touch it.
    I've seen sparks fly, and it will dull a chain in short time.
    It could be just the wood then.

    Usually from the factory, they set the oiler to use one tank of oil to one tank of gas..usually.
    But if it's fixed, then not much can be done.
    I like lots of oil, and sounds like you may need more oil on the saw..might call and see if they sell an oiler that's beefier
    for that saw. You might check the oil pump, there may be some kind of flow adjustment on the pump itself.
    I'll dig some deeper tonite, do some reading on that saw, see what I come up with.
    Eat it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Yeah I saw the holes when cleaning the blade, stupid

    I need to chop it up it ia resting on pines and rather big so an axe would not be helpful
    Decided to cut parts and roll them to the fireplace as benches to minimize the amount of cuts needed.

    But next time with extra oil to lubricate the sprocket and a slightly loosed chain that should make a difference
    I might just take the old chain and file those nudges before the teeth down a little so they can take more wood out while they go if it doesn't work nothing is lost.
    Great help!

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