Last edited by j3hill; 03-16-2009 at 11:54 PM.
Cabelas doesnt ship firearms anywhere except to the stores.
Use of your name at an address that isn't your residence is using a false address... and the BATFE frowns on that quite heavily. Complete with warrants with your name on them.
There is a guy named Walter Birdsong in Mississippi. He makes a finish that the no ****, high speed operators in a lot of the special forces use. It will take around 10 weeks for you to see your weapon again but the quality is second to none. It is a proprietary finish available in Green-T, Black-T, and Gray-T. It is self lubricating, salt-water proof, and elements proof, and not as expensive to do as you might think (I want to say I paid $150 for the AR). The weapon is COMPLETELY dismantled and every metal part (except for the firing pin) is coated. Yes, that means the entire bolt assembly and all pins as well. I have all my weapons coated in it except for my Wilson Combat 1911 which uses its own "ArmorTuff" finish. This guy WILL do civilians but he does not advertise and he has no website. You can google his name and get a load of all his positive reviews from folks and his personal phone number which he will gladly accept calls on. Super nice guy and will chat with you as long as you want him to. Here is a pic of my over-accessorized AR-15 with the Green-T finish
Edited to include my Glock 23 with the same finish. It is my carry weapon and you can see all the beating it takes by the marks on the polymer and the laser site..... however the finish holds up well. I also use NO lubrication on this weapon whatsoever. I clean it by running it under the water faucet and drying it off...... then putting it back together. How's that for awesome in a SHTF scenario with no CLP, oil, or gun grease available?
Last edited by Sgt.Mac; 03-21-2009 at 05:52 PM.
You guys are sure making krylon look shabby.
question about park finish, what is the normal cost and turn around time to have this done?
That 38 pistol looks like it was thrown from a vehicle and then run over a few times just my thoughts on it since I have seen pistols like this for sale at flea markets in the early 80's I would consider running the numbers on this one...Good luck.
Last edited by evildave; 04-13-2009 at 03:19 AM. Reason: none
I have done quite a few of my guns with Duracoar from LCW. My favorite color hands down is Tiger Stripe Brown. My Savage M10 .308 Heavy Barrel police type bolt action with Burris 3-9 x 40 looks awesome with 2 color camo. Don't spray the barrels of your AR's, AK's, etc. with standard Duracoat or you will cook the finish right back off. That's what the Duraheat is for, which I believe is some type of ceramic coating. I found this out the hard way on the ports of my compensated Glock 23C. I have about 15 different colors and routinely do guns for family and friends but I drew the line when my wife wanted her Glock 19 and M4gery done in pink. I can't castrate those guns that way.
Also with Duracoat be sure not to get your hardener and reducer mixed up as they do two very different things but come in almost identical bottles full of a clear liquid. If you use the wrong one you may end up with a gun that no longer fits together and nothing short of a blasting cabinet will be removing the new coating, from personal experience a dremel is beyond a retarded idea but you will get some nice sparks while trying to remove the finish.
Good point;remember to pay attention when mixing the elements.Incidently,the hardener will NEVER be mistaken for reducer( i say never,but watch someone do it!) the hardener moves like molasses,and the reducer is fluid like water.
It's only a wuss caliber until I shoot you with it!