I've had excellent luck installing cement board on spacers (which i made out of 1/2 copper pipe i had laying around. You make sure the board is at least 1" off your floor and you end up with convection air flow behind the cement board that carries the heat up and starts the air movement around the room. I've never needed more than one board used this way. the board gets pretty warm but the area behind the board is much much cooler due to the air circulation. You can take it a step further and add a layer of aluminum foil or any type of reflective shielding material to reflect the radiant heat as well. If it was really bad you could always add a second cement board on top of the first (again spaced 1" from it using spacers and elevated off the floor that same 1"). Since the boards are the typical 4'X8' it typically only takes one on each wall around the stove standing on end they reach all the way to the ceiling (again make sure to cut them a bit to maintain the 1" of air flow space). using those the only danger you'd have is your pipe starting a fire as it goes through the ceiling. I would definitively not cut any corners with the pipe. double wall to the chimney then Class A chimney ONLY through any floors, walls or ceilings. No other way in my book, but the install of a class A chimney is something pretty much any handy guy can do. Doing that will give you a great draft as well and reduce your creosote to boot. As long as you have a decent airtight wood stove you don't need the extra heat coming off the pipe so no benefit to a single wall pipe. In my shop I have a non-air tight wood stove and use single wall pipe as it gets a lot more heat into the room instead of going up the flue. At home I have a more modern stove and it's so efficient that there's much less heat going up the pipe and if i let it cool much more i get more creosote and less draft at lower temps.
2nd Law: In a closed system, the entropy of the system will either remain constant or increase